Mouth-watering kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with locals and tourists alike swearing by its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
Recently, Unesco honored it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – adding it to a select group of global cities and sparking hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this title, it becomes part of a global network of cities metropolises across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "innovation as a catalyst of sustainable urban development".
The honor "demonstrates its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and dynamic gastronomic culture," according to a spokesperson from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to earn a spot in this coveted list of seventy urban centers around the world.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The recognition for this historic city comes as little surprise to its locals or avid food lovers. Many share the opinion that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, bustling, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is at last in the global gaze for what has always shaped its essence: an immense passion for food.
"'The day's menu, how should it be prepared' is a ongoing discussion from morning until going to bed in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often assessed by the quality of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The Nawabi City – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th-century opulent Muslim rulers – is famed for its succulent kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and raised to sublime levels in their royal kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were hubs of food experimentation, blending Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were created. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was devised to cater to an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists processed the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Apart from the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just showcases fresh harvests but also provides the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Almost on every corner, there are little shops and kiosks – lesser-known treasures that are immensely favored by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, large gatherings start gathering from 5 am at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, served in kulhads, along with incredibly soft buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can make their way to a simple joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also boasts special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert available in the winter. The process of making it is scientific and complicated. The cook whisks the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing light consistency.
On cold mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but note that their younger generation do not want to take up the art.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's profound food legacy places it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – influenced by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The global recognition, it is believed, will encourage more people globally to learn these narratives and visit the city to taste the culinary delights of Lucknow.
