🔗 Share this article

Whenever compiling a ranking of London’s best eateries, one might foresee familiar Michelin-starred establishments. But, nestled near the top among these culinary titans is a unpretentious salonu located in a outlying area of northern London.

A Surprise Honour

The small Turkish eatery, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the 4th finest restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent food magazine. This honour has left the owners utterly astonished.

“I’m completely shocked,” remarks the proprietor, pointing to his family’s dedication that culminated in their small restaurant achieving such a lofty ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

This little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a sought-after spot, has kept much of its former feel. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking display, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky spot,” notes the owner.

The Namesake Creation: Tantuni

However, it’s all about the fare, and this establishment certainly delivers. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a succulent consistency.

It is then added into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. Once the meaty mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to absorb all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is wrapped neatly inside.

It is often enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a mighty slap of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The prominent food critic called this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, giving it a deeper, toastier and less sickly profile.

Outranking the Titans

Interestingly, this modest spot has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the top of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, similar tasting menus at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

The Philosophy of Heart

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is supported by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he were in a position of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the pitfalls of excess, and to show what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

A Story of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t apprentice at fancy restaurants. “I feel truly pleased of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants require years to find their footing, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum would be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a personal life but her friends would visit to help her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

A Achievement for the People

The restaurant’s success is bound to echo beyond its own doors. “In my opinion many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the greater meaning of this gastronomic honour.